Seed Malbec 2015
Beautifully delineated, the 2015 Seed Malbec is a small lot single-vineyard wine that is aged for 16 months in new French oak and, I’m happy to report, has a long life ahead of it. At this stage in its development, the nose is quite primary and is heavily laden in fresh blackberries, plums, and macerated […]
J Vineyards Brut Rosé NV
I had the chance to visit J Vineyards in 2015, and was impressed (no pun intended) by the large Coquard press flanking the processing bay of the winery. The Coquard press is traditionally used by Champagne houses, and is extremely gentle. J’s Brut Rosé NV is as I remember it, fresh and vivacious, brimming with […]
Comm. G.B. Burlotto Verduno Pelaverga 2014
Pelaverga is a rare, indigenous variety, found in the village of Verduno in Italy’s Piedmont. As it opens, a sort of mounting energy in the glass, a melange of white pepper and flowers along with brambly fruit, but in this case it’s the spice and floral character that dominates. The nose is, however, far different […]
Leah Jørgensen Cellars Cabernet Franc 2015
Quite possibly the best example of Oregon Cabernet Franc I’ve ever tasted. Ruby robed with violet reflexes, Leah Jørgensen’s Cabernet Franc captivates the senses with aromas of mulberries, marionberries, incense, and anise. In the mouth it’s velvety and supple with cashmere-like tannins lending support to a red-fruited core. White pepper and hibiscus tea at the […]
François Baur Crémant d’Alsace Brut Réserve NV
A winsome blend of Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris that sees 12 months aging sur lie the François Baur Crémant d’Alsace Brut Réserve is pale straw with aromas of baked apple and rustic peach pie, with a top note of dried mint. The attack boasts high acidity carving a wide swath through orchard […]
Veuve A. Devaux Cuvée D NV
Happy New Year, dear friends! We celebrated with this bottle of Deveaux Cuvée D, one that I stowed in my suitcase. In the glass it’s expansive punctuated by baked apple, bitter walnut shells, and anise pastille. Big, powerful, and vibrant in the mouth with high toned acidity that rolls into a pleasantly bitter and vinous […]
Veuve A. Devaux Cuvée Rosée Brut NV
Tasted while visiting Devaux, in the Côte de Bar—the house itself, an historic building just off the bank of the river Seine. Thier non-vintage Cuvée Rosée is tutu pink, with a fine bead it offers a pretty sensor arc of rose petals, anise, red berries and pastille mints. Fresh and convivial on the palate, it’s […]
Coyote Canyon Vineyard H/H Estates Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Big John 2010
Coyote Canyon’s H/H Estate ‘Big John Cab’ Reserve 2010 is garnet-hued at this stage in its life, sporting notes of black cherry, crème de cassis, subtle spice, and dried mint. Satiny smooth on entry with polished tannins and moderate concentration. Black and red fruit nestled at the center, along with a touch of vanilla. Drink […]
Research and Resilience at High Altitude
What one Argentine winery is doing to combat climate change. Climate change is everywhere, according to Dr. Laura Catena, and tackling these problems is a race, “We need to look at life at all levels, using science to preserve nature and culture, and we don’t have much time.” I recently had the opportunity to talk […]
Wilfred Wong’s Pho
A few months ago, a friend from Sweden sent me a recipe for cardamom buns. He’d come across my review of Pierre Peters Blanc de Blancs 2005, where I wrote, “My ex-mother-in-law made Swedish bread every year at Christmas. This brought all of it back; the yeast, cardamom, and toasted almonds.” Having used Vivino since […]