Louis Roederer Champagne Brut Millésimé 1980
This glittery memory of the Louis Roederer Champagne Brut Millésimé 1980 served as a preamble to lunch at the stately home of Jean-Claude Rouzaud, grandson of Louis Roederer. The experience itself, surreal. An unusually warm fall day—with the doors overlooking a small but manicured backyard flung open—even the most palatial homes in Champagne lack air […]
Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut Millésimé 2002
As stately as I expected it to be (can one really expect anything less of a wine as legendary as Cristal in one of Champagne’s most celebrated vintages?) glinting pale gold, the color of a freshly-minted coin. The 2002 Champagne Cristal Brut Millésimé is imbued with soaring notes of pear and smoke, brioche and chalk. […]
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-St.-Vivant 1999
Breathtaking, transcendant and pure, the 1999 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-St.-Vivant is a woven tapestry of raspberries, cinnamon bark and fresh pastry, along with subtle touches of earth, underbrush, and lilting minerality. More diaphanous than the ’99 La Tâche or Richebourg, the words that this wine conjures are vibrant, ethereal, fine-boned and mineral-edged. This is […]
Taylor Fladgate Single Harvest Tawny Port 1863
From pre-phylloxera vines, Taylor’s bought a small lot of only three barrels from the 1863 vintage that had been quietly resting in a cellar for well over a century—the producer had the foresight to reserve them when phylloxera first swept through the region. An important wine because, as Taylor’s staff pointed out, ungrafted vines are […]
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Richebourg 1999
I’ve been holding off on posting notes for months, DRC is admittedly, an intimidating wine to write about. The 1999 Richebourg is a pinnacle wine, the sweetest nocturne, a walled-in garden of the soul. Heady, slowly unfurling layers of rose petals, dark loamy earth, mahogany wood, black cherry, crab apple, game, and forest floor. On […]
Château Léoville Las Cases 1989
The 1989 Léoville Las Cases possesses a deep inner perfume of red currant, rose petals, balsam, graphite and sandalwood. Elegant and weightless, with fine tannins that spread evenly across the palate, like damask silk. There is a wonderful, regal and almost undefinable quality to this second growth. It exhibits both fantastic purity and balance, and […]
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche 1999
The 1999 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche is a transcendent bottle, wherein no one element dominates, it’s in absolute harmony, not unlike a great piece of music or art. It has pronounced power, and is at the same time weightless and ethereal. Layers of crushed raspberries, currants, blackberries and plum give substance to more […]
Pierre Péters Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée Speciale Blanc de Blancs Les Chetillons 2007
Classic Les Chetillons, the 2007 Pierre Peters Grand Cru Cuvée Speciale Blanc de Blancs offers pungent, enveloping aromatics of buttered toast, blanched almond, and bruised yellow apple. Beautifully delineated and focused on the palate with sumptuous creaminess at the core. Wet dough is couched in chalky, mineral texture along with sel gris, dried lemon […]
Château d’Yquem 1998
What can be said about d’Yquem can only be expressed in poetry, even in a modest vintage like 1998. It is an inner sanctum, a fragrant garden, a poignant release that is both profound and glorious. Descriptors cannot do it justice, sensual and honey-drenched layers of apricots, vanilla bean, creme brûlée and almond pastry. Viscous […]
Morlet Family Vineyards Ma Douce 2010
Ma Douce is the third wine in a trio of Morlet 2010 Chardonnay’s I’ve reviewed, and like it’s siblings, it is exceptionally well-crafted. Fragrant aromas of acacia honey, bruised pear and toasted hazelnut fill the glass. Perhaps what I love most about this wine is its outstanding texture, which is elegant and slightly creamy with […]