Château Le Doyenné Côtes de Bordeaux 2016
Delicious for its price point, the 2016 Château Le Doyenné is composed of 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cabernet Franc. As it evolves in the glass lifted aromas of menthol, incense, and violets swirl around darker notes of blackberry and dusky plums. It’s medium-bodied with grippy tannins at the mid-palate, and a limber […]
Château de Pitray Premier Vin 2015
A right-bank, Merlot-dominant blend, Château de Pitray is now managed by the estate’s 25th generation. The wine is delicious for its price point—Merlot’s dark cherry and Damson plum notes are beautifully matched by Cabernet Franc’s delicate florality, combined with enveloping cigar box and warm spice notes. It’s medium-bodied on the palate, with well-balanced acidity. The […]
Château Puygueraud Francs Côtes de Bordeaux 2015
Owned by George Thienpont—the family also own Vieux Château Certan, as such Puygueraud delivers excellent value. This supple blend of 80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Malbec delivers enveloping aromas of blackcurrant, blackberries, Bing cherries, sweet tobacco, leather, and vanilla. It’s round and silky in the mouth with suave tannins that lend structure and […]
Château Pavie Arômes de Pavie Saint-Émilion Grand Cru 2009
Arômes de Pavie is the second label of Château Pavie, and is a blend of 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2009—a warm, ripe vintage is drinking beautifully now. Tight on opening, but after three hours aromas of earth and dust, and freshly turned soil emerge and subside, followed by Damson […]
Château Angélus Saint-Émilion Premier Grand Cru Classé 1995
Lovely and accessible, the 1995 Angélus shows off its pedigree and high percentage of Cabernet Franc with only minimal decanting. A slightly woodsy bouquet of black currants, plums, cedar, forest underbrush, spiced orange pomander, dried lavender, and incense. On the palate, poised supple tannins and a fine acid backbone underpin steeped blackberry, crème de cassis, […]
Paul Barre Château La Grave 2011
I would like to revisit this wine, perhaps from a less challenging vintage. As such the 2011 Paul Barre Château La Grave is somewhat austere, requiring ample time to open. Initially reserved aromas of black cherries, plums, and red currant are followed underbrush and earth. The attack is soft, giving way to fine, powdery tannins […]
Château Les Charmes-Godard Francs Blanc 2014
I’ll admit, I’m always happy to have a Nicolas Thienpont wine in my glass. The Thienpont family are associated with other great Bordeaux properties including Puygueraud, Pavie Macquin and one of my personal favorites, Vieux Château Certan. The 2014 Les Charmes Godard is slightly austere, with pronounced herbaceousness. Smoky minerality swirls around boxwood, cherimoya and […]
Veal Chops and Pomerol
This recipe, albeit simple, hails from the year I spent in Carmel, California, at the invitation of a former wine buyer and his wife. For those of you who are unfamiliar with this story, my year in Carmel is what launched my career as a writer. One could see the ocean from the house, and […]
Scottish Beef Stew Topped with a Phyllo Dough Crust
My take on classic Scottish Beef Stew—the butteriness Phyllo dough crust adds a delicious dimension of flavor and texture. I’ve also substituted leeks for yellow onions and flat iron steak for beef chuck. The flat iron, while more expensive is ultimately more tender. And for me, this is the perfect sort of dish to serve […]
Château Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse 2000
A splendid Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse. Opens with floral aromatics that descend to deeper notes of steeped blackberry, black cherry, charcoal, camphor and dried sage. Structured, powerful fore-to-mid palate tannin with acidity to match, this feels too young at this point, as though it’s not yet fully knit together. Medium-plus finish with herbal notes, and subtle minerality. […]