Olivier Gras Prat Sura Vacqueyras La Cuvée 2012
The 2012 Olivier Gras Prat Sura Vacqueyras La Cuvée is certainly more giving on the second day—this structured Vacqueyras wants to unfurl slowly, no surprise, because the vines are around 35 years old, and are grown in an arid climate, and in stony limestone-galet soil. Prat Sura is a single vineyard bottling, and a small […]
Veal Chops and Pomerol
This recipe, albeit simple, hails from the year I spent in Carmel, California, at the invitation of a former wine buyer and his wife. For those of you who are unfamiliar with this story, my year in Carmel is what launched my career as a writer. One could see the ocean from the house, and […]
Crème Brûlée with Sauternes
This is my go-to recipe from the Culinary Institute of America. It’s fool-proof as recipes go, and there is little motivation on my part to change it. Of course, there are infinite variations on this theme. Try infusing the cream with lavender or cardamom seeds, for example. Or substitute honey for sugar. Add subtle lift […]
Domaine Olivier Hillaire Côtes du Rhône Vieilles Vignes 2012
Laden with boysenberries and plums, dried thyme, earth, game, black olive, and violets the 2012 Domaine Olivier Hillaire Côtes du Rhône Vieilles Vignes is a fabulous value. Complex aromatics lead into juicy black fruit on the palate held in check by moderate acidity and firm tannins that are seemingly steeped in earthiness. Nicely done for […]
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche 1999
The 1999 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche is a transcendent bottle, wherein no one element dominates, it’s in absolute harmony, not unlike a great piece of music or art. It has pronounced power, and is at the same time weightless and ethereal. Layers of crushed raspberries, currants, blackberries and plum give substance to more […]
Côté Mas Crémant de Limoux Rosé Brut NV
A celebratory shade of pink, the Côté Mas Crémant de Limoux Rosé Brut NV is a blend of 70% Chardonnay, 20% Chenin Blanc and 10% Pinot Noir. It’s crafted in the Méthode Traditionelle style, and sees one year aging en tirage. Delicate, feminine aromatics of choke cherries, nectarine, blood oranges, biscotti, and sea foam. And […]
Pierre Péters Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée Speciale Blanc de Blancs Les Chetillons 2007
Classic Les Chetillons, the 2007 Pierre Peters Grand Cru Cuvée Speciale Blanc de Blancs offers pungent, enveloping aromatics of buttered toast, blanched almond, and bruised yellow apple. Beautifully delineated and focused on the palate with sumptuous creaminess at the core. Wet dough is couched in chalky, mineral texture along with sel gris, dried lemon […]
Zaco Rioja Tempranillo 2014
The Zaco Rioja Tempranillo 2014 is crafted in a modern style, and is laden with black fruit, roasted black cherries, vanilla and anise. There is admittedly, lots of sweetness on the nose. Equally softly textured on the palate with plummy undertones and low acidity. It’s only on the palate that the earthier side of this […]
Patrick Piuze ‘Val de Mer’ Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2012
Ripe and expressive, the 2012 Patrick Piuze Val de Mer Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is bursting with honey, white flowers and wet river rock. While medium-bodied, the texture is slightly waxy, verging on tropical with notes of lush papaya, dried pineapple and lemon curd set against a pronounced mineral finish of wet shell and […]
Allegrini Palazzo della Torre Veronese IGT 2011
The 2011 Palazzo della Torre is loaded with roasted figs (is this because I was just roasting figs? Maybe.) and sun baked plums. There is too, a beautiful earthy note, like dust in high summer, that echoes on the palate, lending complexity to high acidity and firm, ripe tannin along with an appealing touch of […]