One of the more intriguing Champagnes I had the pleasure of tasting while in Champagne is J de Telmont’s 2002 Brut Champagne O.R. 1735. A delicate mousse preceded by lemon curd that unfolds to something more distinctive, like Meyer lemon and a very pretty top note of white flowers, chervil and chalk. Telmont uses natural cork rather than crown cap during tirage, a method that introduces slightly more oxygen to the bottle and thus, increases the yeast population—the attack is dense, creamy, and mineral-driven. This lovely prestige cuvée is assembled from 100% Grand Cru Chardonnay and has been aged ten years en tirage prior to disgorgement. Sample
9.2 Points