Apparently, the food scene, like the wine scene, has materialized at a breakneck pace, with phenomenal restaurants springing up across the island like daisies. Some rigidly traditional—like the Japanese restaurant, Seryna in the heart of Makati’s Little Tokyo where I sampled the best Unagi I’ve ever tasted—and others a little more avant-garde.
The streets surrounding Makati, and broader Metro Manila itself, are a gritty, energetic, and eclectic mix, with pockets of poverty pressing in on areas of new construction. It’s a country of contrasts, yawning gaps between classes, sub-tropical heat and a profusion of color. The gap narrows as we near the financial district, which to my Western eye looks like most any well-planned urban center. There are some distinctions besides breezy palm trees and tropical clinging vines; the architecture is singular and unique. There are buildings with a decidedly Spanish influence, no doubt a remnant of nearly 300 years of Spanish occupation. But there is modernity too, newer highrise buildings with an art deco flair compete for space in a semi-crowded skyline. And everywhere, there are Jeepneys, the most common form of public transportation in Manila.
Monopole is located in the Greenbelt Excelsior Building, the entrance understated and discreet. It’s a small space, and seating limited to 16. But that’s okay. An intimate, minimal interior keeps guests focused on what they’re there for, Champagne.
Jack’s brother Joseph “Jojo” a.k.a. “Burgnut” Madrid is no stranger to fine wines. He’s one of the founding partner’s of Premium Wine Exchange, an importer and distributor of North American brands like Harlan, Bond, Mayacamas, and Groth, to name a few. They carry a vast selection of Old World wines as well, many of them are limited and hard-to-come-by, in particular they specialize and have exclusive distribution rights to top Italian estates like Biondi-Santi, Brovia, Paolo Scavino, and Dal Forno. The range of Champagnes and high-end wines at Monopole speak to his savvy as a wine buyer.
I was especially impressed to find the bar stocked with row-upon-row of fragile, exquisite Zalto stems. “Wow, they know what they’re doing,” is the exact thought that entered my mind while one of JoJo’s staff graciously filled my glass with Egly-Ouriet. On the evening we dropped by, the week before Monopole’s grand opening, the bar was filled with some of JoJo’s closest friends, and the atmosphere was ebullient and welcoming. I found myself wondering how it was that in this far-flung place [that’s from a Westerner’s limited perspective, mind you] that such reverence for wine took hold. To be in Manila, and in the company of people who are such avid and knowledgeable wine drinkers was both unforgettable and enchanting.
Stay tuned, I’ll be posting a story about Manila’s Masseto restaurant, better known as “M” and the successful re-launch of Chapoutier next week.
Monopole is located in the Greenbelt Excelsior Building at 105 Don Carlos Palanca Legazpi Village, Makati Metro Manila, Philippines