Venteux Paso Robles Grenache 2015
Limpid, translucent garnet in the Glass, the 2015 Venteux Paso Robles Grenache is native yeast fermented—and one of the more delicate expressions of the varietal I’ve found in this region. Eccentric rings of black cherry and fresh blackberry tumble from the glass, followed by a glorious and evolving profusion of cigar box, warm spice, dried […]
Leverage Acceleration 2016
A new find, Leverage is boutique Paso Robles producer focused on Rhône-style blends. The 2016 Acceleration is a soulful blend of 85% Grenache and 15% Syrah aged in French oak puncheons. Blackberries, black raspberries, and plums tumble from the glass followed by waves of unsalted black licorice, olives, mountain herbs, sweet tobacco, vanilla, and macaroon. […]
Leverage Trajectory 2015
A polished GSM from Leverage, the 2015 Trajectory is a blend of 43% Grenache, 39% Syrah, and 18% Mourvedre. It unfurls slowly, revealing layers of plums and blackberry reduction sauce, sweet tobacco, cigarillo, spice, marjoram, and milk chocolate. On the palate, it’s not at all heavy. Beautifully lifted fruit is couched in fine tannins, deftly […]
Pazo Pondal Rías Baixas Albariño 2016
Lovely mouthfeel in this biodynamically farmed, multi-dimensional Albariño from Pazo Pondal. Dewy pear, melon, lemongrass, a whiff of gunflint, and smoke round out the nose. Texturally it’s quite pretty, and round in the mouth, with a bit of skin-ferment bite. That wonderful texture persists through to a moderate finish tipped in lime zest and fleur […]
Château Suduiraut Castelnau de Suduiraut Sauternes 2006
The 2006 Castelnau de Suduiraut, as with all wines from Suduiraut, possesses a center of gravity. One feels that one is swimming in this wine—in opulent layers of apricot preserves, yellow cling peaches, marmalade, rich spice, dulce de leche flan, and forest honey. It’s dark amber in the glass, viscous and voluptuous. Go ahead, treat […]
Château Lapinesse Sauternes 2016
Crafted from 100% organically-grown Semillon, the 2016 Château Lapinesse Sauternes is lightly botrytized, with more pure fruit character shining through. Aromas of white peach, apricot and orange zest are followed by more subtle notes of florality, almond, and spice. It’s round on entry and silky—the apricot flavors pick up at the back palate, becoming a […]
Paul Jourdan Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve de Leonie 2015
A blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah, Paul Jourdan’s Réserve de Léonie Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2015 is an excellent value with overtones of sauvage and earth, leather and tar vying for, and claiming dominance over more subdued notes of plum and black cherry. In the mouth, high-toned acidity makes this a wine that begs to be […]
Goat Cheesecake with Blackberry Compote & Sauternes
On a whim, I nabbed some of my chef partner’s blackberry reduction sauce he uses as an accompaniment to venison. It’s quite savory, with undertones of anise seed and fennel, I’ve used it here to top my goat cheesecake, finished it off with orange zest—the interplay of layered flavors alongside a youthful Sauternes is just […]
Bodegas As Laxas Albariño Brut Sensum Laxas 2016
A rare sparkling Albariño from Rías Baixas, the 2016 Sensum Laxas offers up billowy aromas of freshly milled flour, green apple, d’Anjou pear, and pea shoot. It’s medium-bodied with lively bubbles and piercing acidity that begins as lemon pith, gently fanning out across the palate as it dissolves into sea foam and mineral inflections. 12.5% […]
Santiago Ruiz Rías Baixas O Rosal 2016
A glinting pale yellow blend of 76% Albariño, 11% Loureiro, 5% Godello, 4% Treixadura, and 4% Caiño Blanco, the 2017 Santiago Ruiz Albariño opens with aromas of lemon drop, white peach, Opal apple, white flowers, lemon verbena, and a lilting touch of spice. Very fresh, with taut acidity, pear skin, mineral verve and plenty of […]