Tokaj Oremus Aszú 3 Puttonyos 2006
Pure, unctuous joy, the 2006 Oremus Tokaj Aszú 3 Puttonyos opens with a botrytized veneer of apricot skins, orange marmalade, forest honey, cloves, and baking spice. On the palate, a languid core of ultra-ripe stone fruit is neatly intersected by a burst of mouth-puckeringly taut acidity. Smoked sea salt notes lend complexity to a lingering, […]
Locations F-5 NV
Locations F-5 NV offers up a deeply perfumed nose of black cherry, black raspberry, plum, earth, purple lilac, dark chocolate shavings, and vanilla bean paste. In the mouth, it’s medium bodied, with finely sueded tannins. Dark fruit is bolstered by a lively vein of acidity—all in all, this is a beautifully crafted wine from winemaker […]
Prosper Maufoux Crémant de Bourgogne Brut Rosé NV
A lively, cheerful bead set against a vibrant background—the sort of orangey-pink one finds in a sunset—sets the stage for this ebullient Crémant de Bourgogne from Prosper Maufoux. Aromas of peach, candied orange peel, crème fraiche, and hazelnut spread grace the nose. On the palate, limestone-etched acidity gives lift to more tender notes of peach […]
Biohof Pratsch Rosé 2017
I come back to Pratsch year after year—the estate is relatively small, comprising thirteen blocks planted on glacially formed hills overlaid in alluvial soils in Austria’s lower Niederösterreich appellation. The 2017 Pratsch Rosé is crafted from 100% organic Zweigelt, the profile is exactly as I remember it, a lilting burst of alpine strawberries, tart pie […]
Marchesi Mazzei Belguardo Rosato Toscana IGT 2017
This charming salmon-hued rosado from Mazzei, a winery that’s been around since the Early Renaissance, is a blend of 50% Sangiovese and 50% Syrah, all from Maremma. Orange blossom and pie cherry waft from the glass. On the palate, it’s light and welcoming with a delicate core of mandarin oranges and salted yellow peach. 13.8% […]
Golan Heights Winery Gilgal Sangiovese 2014
Don’t be afraid to dip your toes into the pond of a region you aren’t familiar with, and a variety that seems slightly out of place. Golan Heights Winery Gilgal Sangiovese is triumphant in its spot-on profile of fleshy plum and black cherry, incense and sandalwood aromas, followed by a touch of exotic spice. It’s […]
Clos des Lunes Lune Blanche 2014
Clos des Lunes, as the name implies, is limpid, yellow moonlight buckled in and braced by moderate oak. Bosc pear, baked apple, fading prairie flowers, and lemon curd permeate the nose. In the mouth, texturally, there is a suggestion of skin contact in addition to light toast—vibrant acidity gives it lift, freshness and a touch […]
Château Léoube Rosé de Léoube 2016
Oh, the sweet promise of summer, Château Léoube Rosé de Léoube hints at ripe melon and fleshy, fuzzy-skinned peaches from the market, a whisper of minerality and jellied raspberries adds layered complexity. It’s light and lean, with a well-formed mineral backbone that chaperones what fruit there is from start to finish, unfurling in a final […]
Besserat de Bellefon Champagne Cuvée des Moines Brut NV
The color of onion skin, Besserat de Bellefon’s Cuvée des Moines Brut is offers decadent creaminess on the interior. The aromatic profile is decidedly autolytic—freshly churned butter, almonds, baked apple, pear skin, chalk and a trace of white wild flowers. In the mouth—focus and energy, as pent-up acid courses through a rich orchard-fruit-laden core. Ultra-fine […]
Château de l’Aumerade Côtes de Provence Cuvée Marie-Christine 2016
An eponymous rosé, for me at least, not the winery—as I’ve been given that most pedestrian 1970s middle name of Marie—pale salmon in the glass, Château de l’Aumerade’s 2016 Cuvée Marie-Christine is awash with yellow plums, peaches, salmon berries, and wet pomace. It’s clean on the palate, prominently featuring blithe acidity and a texture infused […]