Paul Jaboulet Aîné Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert 2010
Infused with smoky blueberries and blackberry jam, and crowned by lighter notes of ash, dried violets, and baking spice—the Paul Jaboulet Aîné Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert 2010 has much to offer. It’s softly textured on entry, with fine, slightly woody mahogany-tinged tannins encircling a richly fruited core. From start to finish, it’s a seamless wine, […]
Bérêche & Fils Champagne Brut Réserve NV
Served at as the warm up wine (an excellent choice, I might add) at a recent tasting held at Portland’s beloved Le Pigeon, Berêche has long been one of my favorite bubblies. This particular bottle, a powerful and slightly yeast-driven Brut Réserve offered up a riotous nose of French baguette, granulated honey, white peach, and […]
Louis Roederer Champagne Brut Millésimé 1980
This glittery memory of the Louis Roederer Champagne Brut Millésimé 1980 served as a preamble to lunch at the stately home of Jean-Claude Rouzaud, grandson of Louis Roederer. The experience itself, surreal. An unusually warm fall day—with the doors overlooking a small but manicured backyard flung open—even the most palatial homes in Champagne lack air […]
Castello Banfi Brachetto d’Acqui Rosa Regale 2016
I wager that Banfi sent me this coquettish Brachetto d’Acqui in the hopes that I’d review it in time for Valentines day. Vivid magenta with a translucent rim, a fine mousse—which I appreciate—and considerable olfactive charm. Ripe, ripe black cherries, crushed raspberries, pungent decaying rose petals, earth, and an alluring pinch of spice. There is […]
Paul Barre Château La Grave 2011
I would like to revisit this wine, perhaps from a less challenging vintage. As such the 2011 Paul Barre Château La Grave is somewhat austere, requiring ample time to open. Initially reserved aromas of black cherries, plums, and red currant are followed underbrush and earth. The attack is soft, giving way to fine, powdery tannins […]
Château Les Charmes-Godard Francs Blanc 2014
I’ll admit, I’m always happy to have a Nicolas Thienpont wine in my glass. The Thienpont family are associated with other great Bordeaux properties including Puygueraud, Pavie Macquin and one of my personal favorites, Vieux Château Certan. The 2014 Les Charmes Godard is slightly austere, with pronounced herbaceousness. Smoky minerality swirls around boxwood, cherimoya and […]
Tire Pé DieM 2012
When I receive samples, I make a point of waiting to research the wines until after I’ve tasted them. First impression—that it’s primarily Cab Franc possibly from the Loire was incorrect—turns out the Tire Pé DieM 2012 is 100% Merlot, organically grown in clay and limestone soils. The profile is light and primary. Cherry clafoutis, […]
Poggio Al Tesoro Vermentino Bolgheri Solosole 2015
Refreshing as Vermentino often is, the 2015 Poggio Al Tesoro Solosole is brimming with canned pear, star fruit, white flowers, cucumber, and granulated honey notes. The palate is lean, chalky, and linear with an arc of nervy acidity that hits first, a tidal burst that gives way to sea foam, lime stone, kaolin clay, and […]
Château Le Crock Saint-Estèphe 2011
A nicely-styled Saint-Estephe—from the Cuvelier family, owners of Leoville Poyferre—in a modest vintage year. The 2011 Château Le Crock opens with lush, inviting aromas of black currant, smoky black cherries, pen ink, leather, and earth. There are no hard edges on the palate, black fruit luxuriates against a framework of well-structured tannins, moderate acidity, and […]
Allegrini Palazzo della Torre Veronese IGT 2013
A perennial favorite, the 2013 Allegrini Palazzo della Torre is nicely concentrated and magenta-hued, due in part to a small fraction of grapes dried ripasso-style blended in post-fermentation—an addition that lends both satiny texture and richness. Layered aromas of plums and cherry skins, leather, earth, tobacco, mint and dark chocolate shavings lead in to a […]