Tokaj’s New Golden Age
How a quiet revolution in Mád will change the way think about Tokaji. To visit Tokaj is to pull back the curtain on an extraordinary place, an ancient place that, at first glance, appears frozen in time even as the region embraces change. Storybook houses cluster together, defining this village from that; only the town […]
Domaine Paul Autard Côtes du Rhône 2015
I’m revisiting this on the third day, it’s still lovely and fresh—Paul Autard’s basic Côtes du Rhône 2015 offers a sweeping palate of aromas. Macerated strawberry, cherry and plum notes are hemmed in by anise verging on violets, crushed stones, black olives, and sweet tobacco. It’s decidedly medium bodied, with dark fruit at the core, […]
Michel Gassier Nostre Païs Costières de Nîmes Blanc 2014
The composition of Michel Gassier’s Nostre Païs Costières de Nîmes Blanc changes from year to year—2014 is 60% Grenache blanc, 20% Clairette, 15% Roussanne and 5% Viognier. That’s a shift from previous vintages with no Clariette, and yet this wine’s personality and intensity remain intact. A melange of bruised pear, ripe melon and yellow peach […]
Larmandier-Bernier Champagne Rosé de Saignée Premier Cru Extra Brut 2013
The Larmandier-Bernier Champagne Rosé de Saignée Premier Cru Extra Brut NV is self-possessed, elegant, and resplendent in tart pie cherries, rose petals, earth, and spice. Pinot Noir is the dominant profile in the blend. A vigorous mousse subsides to reveal lovely balance, finely tuned acidity that amplifies red berries, chalk, anise, white tea. Pierre Larmandier […]
Feudo Arancio Moscato Terre Siciliane Stemmari 2015
Continuing on with the Stemmari line, their 2015 Moscato Terre Siciliane sports a classic Moscato nose. Brimming over with honey, chamomile, white flowers, and mandarin orange. It’s not as heavy or as cloying as some d’Asti, the palate is soft, I’d like a touch more acidity to offset the residual sugar. here. Apricots and stone […]
The Wine of Kings Has a New Successor
Why Dry Furmint will be the Next Big Thing This problem is one that the region’s vintners are acutely aware of, and, perhaps for the first time in decades, Tokaj is ready to reinvent itself. István Szepsy Sr., the region’s most acclaimed winemaker, has seen tremendous upheaval during his lifetime. His son, István Szepsy […]
Feudo Arancio Pinot Grigio Sicilia Stemmari 2014
Last week I had a lengthy and engaging interview with Stemmari winemaker, Lucio Matricardi. His wines, clean and fresh, nicely showcase Sicilian terroir. In the case of this Pinot Grigio, there is ample minerality on the back palate—a flourish of calcareous soils that meander towards a saline edge enlivened by zesty acidity. The fruit profile […]
Feudo Arancio Grillo Sicilia Stemmari 2015
Grillo is an amazing variety; it’s a white grape with a black dress. Why? It has this incredible ability to withstand the heat, it’s really yellow, almost amber-hued with lots of tannins,” says winemaker Lucio Matricardi. The grapes must be pressed very gently, and interestingly only the free run is used in crafting this demure […]
Feudo Arancio Nero d’Avola Sicilia Stemmari 2014
After being open for a couple of hours, the Feudo Arancio Nero D’Avola Sicilia Stemmari 2014 reveals soft, supple undercurrent of plums, prunes, cocoa powder, sweet tobacco and spearmint. The mint note is especially prominent. It’s easy going, round, with moderate acidity, I found myself reaching the bottom of my glass much faster than intended—for […]
Domaine de la Gramière Côtes du Rhône 2011
The La Gramière 2011 is a cuvée of 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah, with vinification in concrete. A rustic, gamey nose of blackberry reduction sauce, beef jerky, freshly turned soil and violets. Aging in concrete has produced a wine that is both fresh with texturally fine tannins. There is high acidity here, too and with […]