Bluebird Hill Cellars Willamette Valley Reserve Pinot Noir 2015
Red cherries, boysenberries and perhaps a touch of wild bramble berry are enlivened by more delicate aromas of heirloom roses, underbrush, white pepper, and baking spice. I love the balance in Bluebird Hill Cellars’ 2015 Reserve Pinot Noir, with its meniscus-tinged in violet, there’s a distinct backbone coursing through it—a balanced acid that crescendos in […]
Bridlewood Monterey County Pinot Noir 2014
A nice value with a distinctive underbrush and red cherry note I attribute to Monterey Pinot Noir, particularly the acidity and what it does in the mouth—a bright burst, even though this is a more delicate, fully translucent example from the region. In addition, wafting cherry blossoms, leaves crackling underfoot, instant coffee, a touch of […]
Lafou De Batea 2013
LaFou is a small producer in the Terra Alta region of Spain, one I was lucky to visit on a recent trip to the Catalan. An expressive, fruit-driven blend of old vine Garnacha Negra and Garnacha Carignan—it’s heavily laden in pie cherries, strawberries roasted in balsamic, olive tapenade, and warm spice. Intense and concentrated in […]
Seed Red Wine 2015
May 28, 2017—Bottle No. 0226 of a 120 case lot from this ultra-boutique winery, Seed. I first tasted this bottling six months ago, when it was still fairly closed—the profile remains unchanged—a heady melange of singed blueberries, black currants, sandalwood, and violets. It has the kind of lightness to it that one would expect from […]
Ponzi Vineyards Pinot Noir Reserve 2013
An utterly breathtaking, seductive nose perfumed in rose water, rhubarb, black cherry, incense, anise, cola, sous bois. The underlying structure is there in Ponzi’s 2013 Pinot Noir Reserve, in the form of ultra-fine tannins framing out a wine of tremendous grace and elegance. Fruit on the palate—a tumble of red and black— is overtaken by […]
Souverain Merlot 2014
Fruit-lovers rejoice. The 2014 Souverain Merlot is an overturned basket of berries—blueberries, blackberries, black cherries tinged with spice and vanilla. It’s equally expressive on the palate without being heavy, the fruit here is more or less hugged by nimble and fine tannins that express something along the lines of black tea at the close. A […]
Columbia Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
Lavishly perfumed with sumptuous blackberry, black currant, lavender pastille, camphor and, interestingly a dusting of talcum powder. On the palate, this Cab-dominant blend is classic Washington State in expression, medium weight, with a juicy black fruit core. That chalky note reemerges towards the finish, giving the impression that the tannins are slightly powdery and fine. […]
Ellipsis Red Hills Lake County Petite Sirah 2013
A deep plunge, Ellipsis’ 2013 Red Hills Lake County Petite Sirah is subdued on the nose. What it lacks in aromatic intensity, it makes up for on the palate. The effect is enveloping—a surge of black fruit, powerful and baritone in tempo, shot through with swirling embers, dried herbs, cedar, spice and a well-structured acidic […]
Herdade do Esporão Douro Minas Quinta dos Murças 2015
From the steeply terraced hillsides of the Douro is this classic and expressive blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Francisca, Tinta Roriz, and Tinto Cão. Layered aromas of plums and black cherries form the foundation, with lively spice and incense notes gliding over the top. On the palate, fruit is restrained by mouth-coating tannins and […]
Herencia Altés Terra Alta L’Estel 2015
A blend of 50% Samsó, 25% Garnacha Negra, and 25% Syrah, Herencia Altés L’Estel has a dark undercurrent running through it—preserved meat, matchstick, flint, dried blood and spice swirl about this wine like a secret waiting to be told—a beguiling top note anchored in black cherries, blackberries, and juicy ripe plums. L’Estel is aged five […]