Anselmo Mendes Curtimenta Alvarinho 2013
From Anselmo Mendes, the 2013 Curtimenta Alvarinho is a lesson in the aging potential of Vinho Verde whites. Fermentation starts on the skins, the grapes are then pressed into large format barrels to age for 9 months. Post bottling, Curtimenta is further aged in bottle for one year, all of which translates in the body […]
Aphros Loureiro Reserva Bruto 2009
Deep gold, like burnished gold leaf, the Aphros Loureiro Reserva Bruto 2009 boasts an oxidative quality that reminds me of Jacques Selosse Champagnes. Decidedly autumnal aromas of baked apple and poached pear are enlivened by a dried orange top note. In the mouth, it’s all soul and soil, sensually earthy layers and leesy wet dough […]
Aphros Loureiro 2014
Citrusy, spritely, aromatic orange loveliness. Orange blossom, mandarin oranges, wet stones. On the palate, Aphros Loureiro 2014 is equally enchanting, softly-textured with delicate silvery mineral filaments weaving in and out of kumquat-and-lemon-pith acidity. It’s round and moderately sweet, with 4.80 g/L RS along with a surprisingly persistent finish. I could drink this all day. 11.5% […]
Stoller Family Estate Dundee Hills Reserve Chardonnay 2013
Lilting aromas of apricot, pear, dried honey, lemon curd, anise. Stoller’s Dundee Hills Reserve Chardonnay 2013 is clean and focused on the palate and more delicate than most. The perception is one of silkiness with beautifully integrated oak (you’d hardly know it’s there) except as a textural component, lending structure, allowing pure orchard fruit notes […]
Troon Vineyard Applegate Valley Vermentino Sauvignon Blanc 2014
This unusual blend of 80% Vermentino and 20% Sauvignon Blanc hails from Troon Vineyard in Applegate Valley—A sub-appellation of Southern Oregon that finds itself a bit overshadowed by the Willamette Valley. I have tasted some lovely whites, especially Rieslings from this region, though this is admittedly, my first Vermentino. Bright lemon yellow in the glass, […]
Quinta de Covela Escolha Branco 2013
Tasted at Covela’s historic estate—a Renaissance manor that sits frozen in time, poised at the mouth of the Douro Valley, along a southern-facing amphitheater robed in lush greenery. The 2013 Escolha Branco is a blend of Avesso and Chardonnay, with a few years of age, offers perfumy aromas of dried honey and orange blossom. Barrel […]
Quinta de Gomariz Vinho Verde Grande Escolha 2015
A refreshing blend of Loureiro, Alvarinho and Trajadura, QG or Quinta do Gomarez’s Grand Grande Escolha 2015, expresses fleshy peach and pear, flavors that are brightened by leaner notes. A citrus and mineral-saline edge, especially on the finish, endows this well-crafted Vinho Verde with a more serious edge. 6.0 RS 11.5% ABV | Sample Quinta […]
Domaine Dublère Corton-Charlemagne 2005
Enjoyed on the Brooks winery patio on a warm not-quite summer’s eve, the 2005 Dublère Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru followed a lithe Muscadet and oysters. Graced with pretty notes of apple tartin, yellow flowers, lemon curd, graphite, and spice, it’s full and round and richly buttery on the palate, with ample intensity and good acidic cut, […]
Kindzmarauli Marani Rkatsiteli Dry White 2014
From the foothills of Georgia’s Caucus Mountains, is this softly-hewn Rkatsiteli. Interestingly, this is a variety that was planted in my former estate vineyard, in a single test row. Kindzmarauli’s interpretation of this ancient, indigenous white brings back memories. Bruised pear, dried orange peel and wild prairie flowers. Full and round in the mouth, like […]
Domaine Vacheron Sancerre 2014
Stunning and vivid, Domaine Vacheron’s 2014 Sancerre is golden-robed and inlaid with lemongrass, lemon blossom, kaffir lime, banana creme pie, lychee, smoke and a nuanced herbal edge. Texturally round and lush on the palate, gloriously disrupted by a piercing vein of white grapefruit and chalky minerality that carries from the attack to a meandering, mouthwatering […]