As with all of my partner’s dishes, they are an intersection of cultures that meld and rub up against each other in surprising ways. There is a kind of irreverence to them, a devil may care approach in the use of ingredients and techniques. He’s not at all shy about breaking the rules. This Cassoulet, which I have dubbed “Rustico” is one such intersection. Layered spices begin with the soaking of the beans and end with the garnishing of the dish.
The final result doesn’t stray too far from the original, there is clearly a Mediterranean influence in addition to pops of flavor memories ingrained up from years behind the stove. We used D’Artagnan’s excellent Cassoulet Kit and added to it a few ingredients of our own, and paired it with a handsome Châteauneuf-du-Pape from Domaine Jean Royer: A blend of 75% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 5% Mourvedre and 5% Cinsault from vines planted in the galet-laden La Crau and Les Grandes Serres lieux-dits, the 2014 Domaine Jean Royer Cuvée Tradition has slight bricking at this stage in its evolution, with layered aromas of black cherry, plum skin, sagebrush, loamy tilth, cigar box, and leather. In the mouth, polished, weightless tannins lend structure to sweetness at the core, with a hint of stony minerality and dried mint glinting through at the finish. 15.5% ABV
There are, of course, endless pairings that will work well with this dish, though with this rendition of the recipe, the spices are more pronounced, and it calls for a sturdy red to stand up to it. I also recommend a hearty red from the Languedoc-Roussillon, a smoky grenache-dominant Priorat or a Gran Reserva from the Rioja.
You can read about my experience working with D’Artagnan’s Cassoulet Kit, where I faithfully reproduce Chef Ariane Daguin’s recipe here.
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