A rarity in the Champagne world, J. de Telmont’s Cuvée Sans Soufre Ajouté Brut is crafted from biodynamically-grown grapes and is made entirely without the addition of sulfur—a practice that makes this former vintner a tad nervous. This bottle made its way back from Reims in my suitcase and weathered the trip well—and offers up a pungent bouquet of baked apple, poached pear, and wet shell. It’s a broad-shouldered champagne, with wet dough at the core and a finish etched in limestone and nut skin. Sample
90 Points