At this stage in its development, it’s quite brawny, and by that, I’m referring to the sheer depth and concentration on the nose which is shows more earth than fruit—a stratified mix of freshly turned tilth, wet terra cotta, forest floor, and black truffle over an underlayment of plums. In the mouth, smoked meat and charcuterie notes are couched in grippy tannins. There is a wildness to this wine, a certain animalness that seems to lurk in the background, through a forest of dark fruit and savory undertones.
92 Points